When our jumbo-jet was approaching the airport I saw again the downtown with skycrapers and big, heavy brown cloud of the smog over it… What a change in just 15 hours: from crystal-clear air and waters of the South Pacific to the heavy polluted, crowded, huge metropolis – one of the biggest in America!
But this city has a places of the special atmosphere. Many of us say: Los Angeles and think: Hollywood. Today I took a walk along the Hollywood Boulevard full of palm trees and blossoming jacarandas. Stars of fame and pretty girls on the sidewalks, movie theatres. It is magic place… Then I drove down the Sunset Boulevard via distinguished Beverly Hills to the palm – fringeg promenades of Santa Monica and then along the coast to Malibu. Did you hear about Malibu Canyon? It is quite short but very picturesque – just drive up via Malibu Canyon Road…
And again noise and traffic jams on the multi-lane freeways… It took almost 2 hours to come back to my hosts…
Tomorrow I plan to escape from this hell to the empty desert of South Arizona…

Bula from Fiji!
I landed in Nadi airport at 5 am and at 9 am I already boarded yellow catamaran “Yasawa Flyer” in nearby Denarau Marina. It sails daily to the small Yasawa Islands spread out in the blue ocean north-west of Viti Levu.
Once – flying from Nadi to Nauru I saw Yasawas from the air – thry reminded me jewels thrown into the sea. Now I was sailing to see how they look from the ocean level. Lovely! My favourite is Waya island with sharp, rocky mountains. “Yasawa Flyer” is visiting one by one resorts located on the islands. You can stay in the chosen resorts paying 50 FJD per night (meals included) plus transportation to the islands (80 FJD to the farthest one – one way). They offer also 7-days boat pass costs 235 FJD but allows you to jump between islands without limits.
But I decided to stay on their old boat “Taralala” cruising slowly around Naviti Islands group – is cost 65 FJD per day including meals, overnight in the a/c dorm and free activities like snorkeling, kayaking and hiking on the island – good price but do not expect a lot of cruising…
Yes, this was my last adventures in the Pacific – after 3 days on the ship I am flying to America… Domage…

I spent four days on Niue Island exploring fantastic caves and grottos, taking pictures of wild costs and nice people who smile regardles their hard life atfer the January cyclone. The ring road along the coast has more then 60 km so it is advisable to rent a car (from 25 NZD/day)… The internet services are available (28k speed only – you most be very patient) but they are no longer free – they charge 2 NZD per hour. We have shortage of diesel at the moment and the supply ship will come on Monday now…
It is the time to pack my backpack again… If the plain will arrive this evening (one flight per week only) I shall fly back to Samoa and then to Fiji to spend few days on Yasawa Islands…
… Well, I think that on my list of visited countries and territories Niue could be number 200!!! 200 visited countries! It is a good reason for the calebration!. Just let you know: there is only one shop with alcohool on Niue, they call it BOND STORE. And if you present your airticket you can get 50 percent discount!… Resonable amount please! (you have allowance of 3 bottles)…

Can you imagine? I found my countryman on the remote Niue Island in the middle of the South Pacific! Everybody here knows Henry (Henryk) and everybody needs him – he is handyman specialised in the construction works… master in carpentery. It was lovely moment when I saw for the first time his smiling face! Then I have been invited to his elegant house for delicious pierogi (polish traditional dumplings) he makes. What a taste in the South Pacific!!!
The only local bank is cheating: the official rate for 100 AUD is 117 NZD – local currency, but here they pay only 97 and say “we dont charge any comission !!!” Tfu!!!

Apia – Samoa… The check in time for the flight was at 2 am! Horrible! Then – after the take-off they Polynesian flight attendends announced that no breakfast will be served due to expected turbulences. Finally we landed on the island of Niue – badly damaged by the cyclone Heta on January 5th… The main “Niue Hotel” and the hospital – both built on the 30m cliff do not exist any more. A lot of another buildings stay still partly damaged. I found a room in the cosy Peleni Guest House (40 NZD) who survived… Niue is coral, rocky island rising from the ocean, so far I did not see any beaches but a saw a lot of mosquitoes… It is good to have here mosquito net with you… (Yes, I have!). No fresh bread today! Locals said that the bakery is off fluor… The supply ship is expected in 4 days… Appreciate your fresh breakfast rolls in Poland or elsewhere!

Thanks to all of you who sent me via e-mail wishes in the ocassion of my nameday!…
Today I took a tour of the Savaii – the bigger island of Samoa. The island is very attractive – it has the vast fields of volcanic lava. Can you imagine the ruins of the church with lava inside? There are also high and picturesque cliffs in the south… But the highlight of Savaii is the huge blowhole – I did not see similar one around the world! The water was blowing as high as 20-25 m – over the tops of palm trees… local boys put coconuts into the hole before the blow and next they fly high into the sky… I tried to take good pictures and… to protect my camera from the salt spray…
And here is something strange: – local groundowners charge entry fees (like 5 tala for the blowhole or 2 tala for the cliff) it is not so much but if you visit 10 such sites during one day… Anyway Samoans are very nice and friendly people and I like very much my stay on both islands…

The sun was rising over the navy blue ocean and I heard the sound of little waves approaching the beach when I opened my eyes… I layed naked in the small, open, tatched house (“beach fale”). Through the mosquito net I enjoyed the view of white, sandy and empty beach fringed by palm trees… -It is my nameday today! -I recognized in my still-sleepy brain… In Poland most of the people still celebrate his saint patron day instead of birthday. So am I… On Samoa, on the sunny island of Savaii… It will be worth to open the large bottle of the local VAILIMA beer in the evening…
Beach fales cost here 50 tala per day including meals in local style…

Believe or not: herd of elephants /12 or more -withe babies/ said Godbye to me at the reception building of Flatdogs Camp when we were departing at 6 am….
I met in the camp nice couple from Switzerland theveling with own car and they offered me a ride back to the world… It was important because it is very difficult to find bublic transpart from Mwfue back to Chipata. Thanks a lot – Anrdea and Richard!!
Passing by Chipata after 5 hours we reached the border point of Malawi… Surprise… Most african countries issue tourist visas at the border… – But Poland and Switzerland are not on the list!! – said black officer… What should we do?
Finally he gave us temporary 2-days permit on the yellow piece of paper. With this paper we raported to the immigration office in the capital city of Lilongwe, we paid 3000 malawi kwacha /1 USD is worth 120 MKwacha/ and we got our visas. Ask for the yellow paper!
Welcome to Malawi!

The Tokelau odyssey is over! Can you imagine? During 7-days journey to Tokelau and back we met only one little fishing boat! Only empty Pacific Ocean around! Disembarked from m/v “Tokelau” in Apia I walked only 400 m with my 20k bacpack to Seaside Inn – cosy backpackers guesthouse just near the port. They offer fan rooms from 60 tala with breakfast included – and that is what I need to rest, make the laundry, and enjoy the food other then rice-and-meat served aboard (and included in the price of the ticket). The ground under my feets is still swinging… I plan to move tomorrow for 3 days to Savai – the biggest island of Samoa – it is still unknown to me – travellers say it is even more interesting then capital island of Upolu. Soon we will see!

Tokelau – former Union Islands consists of only 3 little atolls. The ocean was stormy, but I was still lucky to land on all of them and even to spend the nights ashore. On Nukunonu there is only guesthouse you can use if staying for few days (50 NZD full board and full of ants). Luciano – the owner took me with small boat across the emerald lagoon to the little motus – palm-covered, empty islands… Tokelau… The place is wonderful! Isoloated from the rest of the world, with old customs preserved, nice people and unspoiled nature. No airstrip, no port – every landing was a new adventure! I took a lot of pictures, met many interesting people and… during the last hour of my stay taking a boat trip between small motus I broked down my video camera… – it was sprayed by salt water… But it was still worth…
Now again we have two nights on a deck sailing to Apia. Thanks God the weather is improoving!