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Lonely Buddha and Winter Palace

Temperature in Ulaan Baatar suddenly dropped down to 4 deg. Celsius only. On the way to my destination I crossed again main square and… met there the group of Mongolian men in the national costumes. Sorry, they came from countryside where English isn’t popular. But the smiles worked and I had great souvenir picture:

But it was just the beginning of socializing. Few minutes later just married local couple arrived to have traditional picture in front of the parliament building. Congratulations! They also were happy to have a picture with a foreigner:

Then bus 52 took me for 1000 tugrik to the 23-m statue of Buddha Sakyamuni located in n the small park squeezed between high housing blocks. Locals say, that lonely Buddha was erected here before they build first block… The city is growing! And for the monument it is now very strange location:

Then I was walking back to the center of capital to visit on the way the palace of the last Khan of Mongolia (he died in 1924). The palace survived soviet demolition in the 30-ties because it was converted into museum. You can visit it paying 15000 MNT, but yoy cannot take pictures or register video inside…

Last Khan of Mongolia – Bogda Khan was living here till his natural death in 1924. Later revolutionists were ruling the country. Now they have democracy and friendly, young police wistling strongly in the crowded streets:

Tomorrow in the morning I will start my 5-days 4×4 expedition to Gobi Desert, where I will live in the yurts. Who knows if there will be internet availability. Just be patient and keep the fingers crossed, dear Friends. 🙂

Giant monument of Genghis Khan

He is now recognized as a father of the Mongolian nation. On 12th and 13th century he unified local tribes and started to build his emporium.

Some 53 kms from the capital in the tipical steppe landscape in 2008 Mongolians built a huge statue of Genghis Khan 40 m high on the 10 meters basement housing museum and shops. It is the must for the visitora to be there. Tipical half- day tour costs 40 USD plus 30000 MNT entry fee.

I have been there today and I am very impressed. It is hard to believe but inside the monument they installed litte lift and stairs allowing to climb to the small terrace located on the head of the horse. The view from the terrace is great:

Staying on the terrace you are face to face with a national hero, made in stainless steel. They uded 250 tonn of this steel to build this world-largest equestrian statue:

Around the statue there are many tourist institutions like camel rides, eagles, archery and so on. Regular tourist business…

The tide by car back to the capital took me 1.5 hours. We stopped on the way at the roadside yurts for the refreshment. It was a chance to take the pictures:

It was great, sunny day. But it is getting cooler and cooler here!

Day without the cars!

Lovely, suunny day in Ulaan Baatar, but only 10 deg. Celsius. I was surprised when I entered the main street of the capital and I didn’t see any traffic! In central Ulaan Baatar today the announced day without cars. Walkers are wandering around wide streets and squares.

On central Suhe Baatar Square there are rows of tents housing Food Festival – you can try local specialities. On the stage Mongolian artists are performing singing and dancing ang in the night they organize the marathon.

Local people are nice to me, usually they speak good English rather then Russian. Charming young ladies wear western clothes. I took the picture with the whole female group perfoming national dances:

In the crowd of wondering people there are kids and strange youths ready for the picture with you. And all of these creates quite different image of the new Mongolia with many high-rise buildings in the background… 40 years ago I experienced quiet different city landscape…

Mongolia after 40 years

We landed in Ulaan Baatar in the middle of the night. Only 3 deg. Celsius. Brrr!! I am now in continental climate zone… Driver from Khongor Guest House was waiting for me (this luxury cost me extra 30 USD) but the airport is 40 kms out of the center of capital. Imagine that I was already here – more than 40 years ago, during the communism period… Even during the night the city looks now more elegant..

My guesthouse is just a converted flat in the concrete block. Rooms with shared bath are small, but inexpensive (from 12 USD for single) and basic breakfast (bread, jam and coffee) is included.

It is a nice place to meet other travellers but it is the end of the tourist season so I found in the guesthouse only few new friends – from US, Japan and Taiwan. Let’s have a rest and adjust to the altitude – I am 1300 m above sea level!

I like most three Japanese from Sikoku Island. They like me too and are ready to listen hours and hours to my travel stories.

They ask many questions and are impressed by the huge capacity of my website

Flying east

People from my BZN hotel said that the city bus H6 goes every 50 minutes. But they weren’t smart enough enough to find the timetable on internet. But they were smart enough to offer me their taxi. When I reached the bus stop H6 was just approaching. Lucky me! IST new aiport building is nice, but expect two security controls and long line to get immigration stamp.

MIAT Mongolian plane was already waiting – it was brand new dreamliner with exceptional service – I was impressed! Soon we started our 6000 kms – 8 hours trip.

Uskudar in Asia

My hotel is cozy (see picture) and the staff is friendly here. But included breakfast is not a buffet breakfast. In Turkey each guest is receiving little tray with one boiled egg, few skices of mest and cheese, slices of veggies. Tea or coffee is unlimited. Receptionist showed me the way to the the nearest metro station on M11 subway line (30 min walk). No card for fare payment You have to buy Istanbul card first – it costs 165 lira. On the top of this amount you have to pay in Turkish cash or c. card for expected rides. I experieced here first cheat. No people in charge to complain! The machine charged my cc for card but didn’t lssue it!

Nobody will tell you that at the end of the metro line M11 in the long underground corridors young clerks will catch you and push to pay extra fee for the connection. I disembarked metro on Taxim Square and went down to the Bosporus European bank. Then I took the ferry to the Asian bank, the trip to Uskudar with a nice view of the bridge takes around 20 minutes:

On the Asian coast I was climbing green hills for the views – nice paths are there. In the afternoon I returned to Europe by bus via the bridge. Two continents in one day!

Unfortunetely I experieced second cheat in the underground corridors of the subway. I didn’t have enough money to pay the M11 line surcharge. Credit card was not working. Young clerk took from me 5 dollars and didn’t give me change in cash or in credit on Istanbul card. He just disapeared! That’s black face of Istanbul. Take care when you will come here! You are in Turkey!

Gdansk to Frankfurt to Istanbul

It was still dark when I arrived to Gdansk airport. Polish king Sigismund on the statue in the departure hall was saying to me happy journey… (see picture) Soon they started boarding of Lufthansa’ airbus heading to Frankfurt. Poor Lufa! Once one of the best European airlines – now their flight service within Europe is limited to the bottle of water 0,3 l and miniature chocolate. If you want eat more you have to pay.

In Frankfurt we landed on time, but the airport buses taking passengers to the terminal were staying in the traffic jam pushing me to run to the gate. I was packed to the plane in the last second. In Istanbul airport the corridors are long and the lines to immigration control too… Finally I went out of the building urned left and found H6 bus heading to my BZN hotel in Arnavutkoy. The fare paid by credit card is higher than by Istanbul card – I paid 120 lira. In the hotel For 25 euro they offer clean room with bath and breakfast. It was time to rest!

I will travel anyway!

I spent more then two years preparing for this epic journey. Less experienced travelers were set to join me for parts of the route around the globe. I do not want to let them down or cause them financial loss due to my health issues. It will be a huge challenge, but I believe I can handle it. So, I am setting off on my 16th journey around the world (see the map below) and asking you to keep your fingers crossed for me. Whenever I have internet access, you can find the latest updates from the road in my “new-old” travel log. I expect to be back home on December 21st late evening…

Jeff – toptrotter from USA

I met Jeff many years ago on the expedition to Antarctic. We were exploring South Georgia and landed on remote Bouvet Island. Later he invented meeting of the toptrotters (that’s how I named travellers who explored much more than regular globetrotters). He accepted my proposal: let it be Lena River in Siberia. Five of us: two Americans, Frenchman, Jorge from Spain and me met in Yakutia in 2009 – see our picture on the junk river boat:

Today I had a pleasure to meet Jeff again after 17 years. He is outstanding toptrotter: he visited all countries of the world but also climbed Seven Summits (the highest peaks of all seven continents)

We both were so happy to talk about our travels, our plans and new opportunities. Thank you Jeff and until the next time!

Visitors from Servas

Travelling the world I take the advantage of being the member of the Servas – international organization of the open doors. I am also meeting and guiding other members coming to Gdansk. I just had a plasure to guide the lovely couple from Koln, Germany – Ingrid and Peter:

The day was lovely and we had a good time walking aroung old town, taking free (fer seniors) tram to Oliwa for park and cathedral. Thank you dear Servas Friends for your visit! 🙂