Pitcairn Island – Wojciech Dšbrowski travel report, pictures and info (pitcairn_en.htm)

times filmed  story of the ship  “Bounty”?  It is different from other

south seas stories because it is authentic. In 1787 British monarch sent

“Bounty” to the recently discovered islands of Polynesia to bring the plants of

breadfruit tree.  They intended to plant them in the British colonies in the West

Indies to feed easier thousands of old slaves working there.  After exhausting,

10-month journey “Bounty” reached Tahiti, friendly received by Polynesians.

  Preparations of plants for the long way took almost half a year.  In the

meantime many British sailors found there female partners – Tahitian ladies are famous of

hospitable Tahiti was not joyful, captain Bligh was known as despotic person.  Nobody

knows what was the basic source of the mutiny: his cruelty or yearning for the lost

Tahitian paradise. They left captain Bligh with loyal sailors in the longboat on the open

sea. After few months they miraculously reached Indonesia.  “Bounty” with

mutineers turned back to Tahiti.  Here some people were left. The remained members of

the crew including Fletcher Christian – the head of  the mutiny sailed onward to

that sooner or later British navy will hunt for mutineers wanting to punish them, to make

an example… He decided to invite the group of Tahitians and to hide on the island which

will be difficult to find for the navy ships. They wander the ocean for few months until

they reach uninhabited Pitcairn. They found it by chance, because on the British navy maps

it was marked by mistake about 200 miles away.  -They will not find us here! – they

assent . After removing ashore everything of value the mutineers burned the

“Bounty” to avoid detection…  No wonder – at that time mutiny on the ship

was punish by gallows…           

neighbors east of Pitcairn live on  Easter Island –

more then  2000 km east. To the coast of Tahiti on the west is almost 2400

the adversity of lonely Pitcairn: the island lies almost exactly on the line connecting

heading from New Zealand to the US east coast and Europe always are passing by. If there

is need  to supply the island freighter is anchoring for hour or more in front of

Bounty Bay and islanders are coming with their longboat to get the load. Thanks to this

convenient location they can get the mail say every two months. If not – only chartered

boat should supply them and who will charter the boat to supply 50 people living thousands

cruise ships and round-the-world journeys tourists are rare on Pitcairn. In 1997, when I

visited Pitcairn they expected only 3 passenger ships.  And they were not big liners

but small expedition boats carrying from 50 to 200 passengers. I arrived on proudly named

any harbor on Pitcairn. “World Discoverer” anchored in a safe distance from the

coast.    We landed in small rubber motorboats called “zodiac”.

It is very difficult operation – possible only when the waves are not high. We were lucky,

but sometimes expedition ship is coming in – and coming out because the sea is too rough.

In Bounty Bay there is small  breakwater protecting landing place with capacity of

we disembark our zodiac welcomed by Debbie Baronian – teacher’s wife. He handed out the

copies of  “The Pitcairn Miscellany” – local periodical  distributed  worldwide by subscription. People from the island expect to get more subscribers which

will made Pitcairn more popular through the world and to earn some extra money for the

up the gravel road – some 80 m to the small plateau. Those, who are not strong enough

(remember – it is tropic and sun and humidity are very strong) were waiting for

fourwheeler –  ATV – all terrain vehicle  – the only mean of motor transportation.

  Islanders have few of them.  On the way there is a pole with the Pitcairn flag

and small tableau founded in the occasion of  the 200-anniversary of  sailors

from “Bounty”arrival. (It was just few years ago).

in my life I am visiting country  capital inhabited only by 50 citizens! First

building of the capital houses small cooperative shop. For the reason of our arrival in

front of the shop islanders put big table full of souvenirs: pandanus baskets, shark and

dolphins carved in miro wood and “Bounty” models.   The official

currency unit used on Pitcairn is New Zealand Dollar, but smiling islanders accept also US

the capital city. Three buildings surround it: on the left side – church of Seventh Day

Adventists  (all population of the island belongs to this church)  in front:

library and post office and on the right – Public Hall which works as court if necessary.

Right in the front of the Public Hall big anchor excavated from the wreck of

“Bounty” is located. Of course it is no. 1 photo spot for the tourists.  On

the square, under the stretched canvas we found next stalls with souvenirs: handpainted

bags and T-shirts –  15 USD each and fish bones jewelry. For the guests they prepare

there thermos with chilled water – just invaluable in today’s heat – it is more than 30

on the island lives around 50 persons. A group of teenagers is temporary dwelling in New

Zealand learning in the secondary school. They will return after graduation…  Will

they really return , for sure?  Almost all people in the stalls are elderly. Millie

and Warren Christian are seniors among them. She is 89 years old, he is 82. -And thanks

God we are still in good health!   -Are you from Poland?  Warren cannot remember if there was

somebody from Poland on the island. Is this possible that I am the first Polish visitor on

of “Public Hall” there are pictures and souvenirs from different ships visited

Pitcairn in the past. There are also portrait photos of the queen and her husband,  

but  they are made in London, not on Pitcairn – it looks that the queen never visited

this distant crown colony. At the entrance of the hall there is curious phone set

installed. When you turn around the crank the bells in selected houses on the island are

are hidden in the green of palm, papaya and orange trees. On their verandah they hang big

bunches of bananas – there is much more of them that they really need. I can hear also

distant motor unit producing energy for the whole island. It is on for few hour every day.

Some families have also own small independent units  for their needs. What do they

eat?  They have own planted fruits and vegetables, they have also some livestock…

communal needs they collect from the emissions of postal stamps, which are rare in the

world and from the production and distribution of own-made souvenirs. Who is ruling on

Pitcairn? Formally this small state is British Crown Colony and it is administrated by a

British High Commissioner from distant Wellington, New Zealand. Commissioner is appointing

three officials: policeman, postmaster and secretary. On the island every year they elect

12-person council. And once for 3 year – Island Magistrate.  I think that almost

contact with the rest of the world. If somebody become seriously ill pastor’s wife provide

only assistance. She is graduated nurse and she can get radio consultation via radio with

doctor in New Zealand. There is no other form of the help for ill people – there is no

airport on the island to pick up somebody to the hospital. There is no heliport as well

school is winding in the green tunnel formed by giant banyan trees. Lovely building of the

school was established only few years ago. In the classroom which reminds me workshop

there is only few tables. No wonder – there is only 7 schoolchildren and at the moment

movies only. They take care of the memorabilia related to the island history: in the wing

of the school building they established small museum. It contains old tools, photographs

and documents.  Volunteer teacher recruited in New Zealand are changing  on the

island  every two years. English is of course the official language, but locals,

especially older ones speak a kind of slang: the mixture of  English, sailors jargon

wrap are protecting me from the strong sun. Sweat is falling down from my nose. Only a bit

lower then the school is the beginning of the path going steeply up – to the Christian’s

Cave. Soon it starts to cross open slope with no shadow, but the view from the place is

breathtaking: the navy-blue ocean, rocky coast and our ship anchoring in the safe distance

not very spectacular – high and shallow looks more like grotto. But it was this cave that

Fletcher Christian stayed for hours, and sometimes days, to get away from all other

looking for the moral support because life on the island at that time was not idyllic.

Over the several years almost all the original settlers died or were killed in arguments

over the Tahitian women. Fletcher Christian is believed to have been killed by two

Tahitians. By 1800 only one mutineer, John Adams remained on the island. He became husband

children using as spelling-book Christian’s bible.  Now this famous bible from

“Bounty” as relic is displayed in the glass-topped box in front of the altar of

they remained hidden for the world?    Nobody knew about them until 1814 when

remained mutineer  was pardoned and left on the island till his death in 1829 at the

islanders to other place. For the first time – to Tahiti. They returned at their own

request few years later. Then British Commissioner transferred the entire community to

Norfolk Island, close to New Zealand  where they were settled in the buildings of

difficult to read the names on the old graves.  On the new ones I was reading

frequently such names like  Christian, Young, Adams…  – well known from the

“Bounty” story.  Nobody knows where the grave of Fletcher Christian is

located.  The graves of John Adams – the patriarch of Pitcairn, his wife and daughter

are located on the other side of the road under picturesque palm trees… Christian’s Cave

kilometers. Well fitted tourist can walk all around it in one day. It can take even less

but the heat is exhausting! Walking alone I climb clayey track up and up.  Pitcairn

is divided by the E-shaped ridge with the highest summit of  347 meters. On the

highest points of the ridge I found small cottages. They remain open, with supply of water

and fuel…  Why to lock them?   Short-wave radio station is also located

in the separate building up on the ridge. There are few people on the island who act as

radio – amateurs calling every day other radio enthusiasts all over the world. No wonder –

radio is the only thread connecting them with other people…  Friends of 

Pitcairn established internet page dedicated to the island (http://www.lareau.org/pitc.html) , but nobody

from the island saw it  – so far they just have no access to the “worldwide

web”. May be that quick development of satellite communication will change that

Commonwealth.  Three other islands also belong to the Pitcairn state: Henderson, an

atoll, is located 168 kilometers east of Pitcairn and is currently uninhabited. The

residents of Pitcairn sail to Henderson from time to time to collect miro wood for their

carvings. Other two atolls: Ducie (186 miles west of Henderson) and  Oeno (75 miles

there were 400 pounds in gold in the safe onboard. Only small amount of this money captain

Bligh spent buying wine on Madera. What was happened to the rest of gold?  Maybe it

is still buried on Pitcairn.  If it is true Pitcairn can be also called Treasury