I took a big, nice Ceres lines bus going almost every hour from Caticlan (opposite Boracay) to Iloilo – the big city on the south of the Philippines. We were crossing the big Panay island by bumpy road. But this was the best bus I used in the Philippines – they charge 244 peso. Iloilo is nicer then Cebu city. I found here few poor, colonial churches and many nice old mansions built in the gardens. They have also little but interesting museum (you will pay 15 peso entry fee). Smokey jeepneys are polutting the air in the streets but they are also the best to moove around – they charge 7 peso per ride. Another error in the Lonely Planet book: Ceres Lines terminal is located now on the outskirts of the city: you have to use two jeepneys one by one to get to the center.
I stay in the lovely Penssione del Carmen located on the bank of the river. The old, charming lady charges there 650 peso per room and you feel there like the member of the family.