This is the only road north from Tbilisi – the ancient passage through the Great Caucasus to Russia. I found “marshutka” minibus going to Kazbegi at Tbilisi Didube bus station. Transport is not expensive in poor Georgia – for 3 hours non-stop travel through the mountains they charge 10 lari and your backpack travels for free…
The scenery is spectacular: there are ruins of old churches and castles, herds of sheeps and cattle blocking the road and artificial Zhinval lake at the bottom of the fall-colored slopes…
Jvari Pass – over 3000 m is the highest point of the road. There were some snow when passing bu it was OK and the views were excellent.
In Kazbegi I found accommodation at private house of Vano – they charge only 10 lari for the bed and full board. In the afternoon I climbed to the 14th century Monastery of Holy Trinity – visible high in the mountain from Kazbegi. It takes 1.5 hour up and 1 hour down. The monastery is one of the symbols of Georgia. Can you imagine? – the monks were singing there in the dark interior in front of stoney ikonostas only for two locals when I reached the place… Unforgettable!