The lower cathegory of the sleeper on Chinese Railways are hard sleepers. There are open compartments with 6 beds on 3 levels in every one. They provide clean pillow and sheets with thick blanket. Bud it is true that the bunks are hard…
It is very socializing style of travel – everybody is looking what you are doing and during the day all pax sit on the lower beds. That’s why it is better to buy the middle bunk, if available…
I travel on a hard sleeper from Yongding to Guangzhou – like 9 hours only. And this will be the end of my rail odyssey through China. From Guangzhou I plan to take inexpensive domestic flight to Hainan Island.